Tables worth booking

Sketch is one of those places that could easily be all spectacle and no substance — the egg-pod loos alone have their own Instagram following. But the food in the Lecture Room and Library is genuinely extraordinary: three Michelin stars earned and worn lightly, with a kitchen that seems to find the whole thing rather fun.

There are restaurants you visit and restaurants you remember. Moor Hall is the second kind. Set in a restored 16th-century hall on the edge of a lake in Lancashire, it has the quiet confidence of somewhere that doesn't need to shout. The food speaks clearly enough on its own.

The Ledbury reopened after a lengthy hiatus with something to prove, and it's proved it. Brett Graham's cooking has always been technically precise, but there's a looseness to the new menu — a willingness to be playful — that wasn't always there before. The result is one of the most enjoyable meals in London right now.