"Art installation or restaurant? Both, and neither apologises for it"
Sketch is one of those places that could easily be all spectacle and no substance — the egg-pod loos alone have their own Instagram following. But the food in the Lecture Room and Library is genuinely extraordinary: three Michelin stars earned and worn lightly, with a kitchen that seems to find the whole thing rather fun.
The tasting menu runs to nine courses, each one a small argument for why cooking is still one of the more interesting art forms. A langoustine with fermented black garlic and a broth that tasted of the sea at its most concentrated. A pigeon dish that arrived looking almost too beautiful to eat, and tasted better than it looked.
Service is the kind that makes you feel like the most important table in the room without ever being obsequious about it. The sommelier talked us through a half-bottle of Burgundy with the enthusiasm of someone who genuinely couldn't believe we were about to drink it.
The Gallery downstairs is a different proposition — more casual, more colourful, and considerably easier on the wallet. Worth knowing if you want the Sketch experience without the full commitment. But if you're going, go properly.
Worth knowing
- Three Michelin stars that feel earned rather than inherited
- The Gallery is a genuinely good option for a lighter visit
- Wine list is exceptional — the sommelier team are brilliant
- The room itself is one of the most beautiful in London
Bear in mind
- The tasting menu is a serious financial commitment
- Booking requires planning weeks in advance
- The egg-pod loos are famous for a reason — expect a queue
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